youtube.com/watch?v=vU32QuXppkQ
I want to do this so bad.
This seems almost religious to me. It is no wonder that people who study surfing history believe that it was first a spiritual activity in hawaii.
“People were surfing in Hawaii by AD 400, but nobody knows when, or precisely where, this practice started. Capt. King, a British sea captain and explorer, was the first European to witness surfing in Hawaii in the late 1770s.” (from wikipedia on surfing.)
WOW!
There are two kinds of people. Surfers and non-surfers.
Beautiful.
A
I think I’m neither… 
I thought the wave was far more impressive than the surfing.
Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 11:11 pm Post subject: Surfing
To me impressive is not what this is about. I think it is about an overall feeling. You either feel it or not. surfer or non-surfer. . . and I’m not making a value judgement here.
Have you ever tried surfing?
AWESOME! Absloutely awesome.
I think there are many different levels oF ‘spiritual’ experience and I’d agree that, on a mental / physical energy level, this would definitely be one of them.
Of course the surfer is ‘in tune’ with the enormous wave of swollen energy but to ride like that you have to hit the ‘sweet spot’ in your head as well.
The ‘zone’ as they call it seems to be a mental cavity one falls into when balancing the mind between sheer cliffs of exhilaration and absolute terror.
These guys certainly deserve respect.
.
No sir, but I do feel an awe for the wave and did stare in wonder at the spectacle. Perhaps I don’t get the surfer bit, but I do get the wave.
i actually love that clip.
the firsttime you watch it you really cant even tell its a wave a*the long versiol
im suprised hes not using a foil board.
the oswer f the ocean is incredible.
insanity and happiness can co-exist, some acts that many consider to be insane, may be the most sane things ever.
Exactly.
A
I’ve heard it suggested that it started with island kids playing with pieces of old broken boats.
I’ve always preferred this video clip myself… Raw…
Real.